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Comprising
many dangerous rapids and currents, Xiling Gorge starts at Badong
County and zigzags for 76 kilometers (47 miles) down to the Nanjin
Pass in Yichang. It is the longest part of the Three Gorges system
with dangerous rapids like Xietan, Qintan and Kongling, collectively
known as the Three Rapids of Xiling.
The first rapid in Xiling Gorge - New Rapid (Xin
Tan) - rushes over submerged rocks, the oily surface of the water
churned by whirlpools. The swift current carries boats down river
through Xin Tan at the rate of seven meters (30 feet) per second.
It is a thrilling ride.
The four-kilometer long Military Books and Precious
Sword Gorge (Bingshu Baojian Xia) is the first spot at the western
entrance of Xiling Xia. The name of the gorge refers to a stratified
layer of rock resembling a stack of books, and a perpendicular
rock shaft below it at a small cave on the north bank.
Rice Granary Gorge (Micang Xia) stands at the
mouth of a ravine on the south side. Blown by river winds, fine
sand piles up on the rock, and slowly leak through a hole underneath,
hence the name Micang.
Further on, Qintan Rapid, stretching between
"Military Books and Precious Sword Gorge" and "Ox
Liver and Horse Lungs Gorge", includes First Rapid, Second
Rapid and Third Rapid, and runs one-and-a-half kilometers from
west to east. It teems with reefs and heaves with sweeping, boisterous
rapids. Sailors call it the "Iron Threshold" to the
river. Boats and skiffs shoot downstream like flying arrows and
flounder upstream as if scaling a ladder, zigzagging their way
both up and down.
The channel winds blow east and then south, towards
Ox Liver and Horse
Lungs Gorge, which is named after the yellow stalactite formations
on the north side. One of the 'Horse's Lungs' went missing, blown
up by British gunboats during the reign of Emperor Guangxu (1875-1908).
Kongling Rapid lies in the Miaohe section. The
local people have always said: "Qintan and Xietan are not
real rapids compared with Kongling Rapid - the worst of the Yangtze
rapids." 24 reefs, named Great Pearl, First Pearl, Second
Pearl, Third Pearl, and so on, are crammed into the rapids, overlapping
each other. The Great Rapid sprawls in the middle of the river,
dividing the water into two channels; the south channel is full
of jagged reefs and fickle eddies, and the north channel is narrow,
twisted and forbidding with submerged rocks. There is also a treacherous
reef called "Coming-at-Me", which used to fill people
with fear. This is a rapid where passing boats have to thread
their way through the reefs, dodging from side to side all the
time.
Down river about five kilometers past Qintan
Rapid is Ox Liver and Horse Lungs Gorge. Many other scenic spots
encompassed by Xiling Gorge are "Lantern Shadow Gorge",
"Huangling Temple", "Three Travelers' Cave",
"Horse Bell Rock", Mt. Qingshi (Black Lion) in Shipai
Town, and Three Swords Peak at Nantuo. There are also many spectacular
waterfalls. During the rainy season, one of the largest, Jiuwanxi
Waterfall, roars with its gushing water.
At the foot of Heavenly Pillar Peak, there is
a stalactite cave called Huangsang Cave. It is spanned by a natural
stone bridge, known as the Fairy Bridge that is covered with creeping
plant growth. On one end of the bridge stands a statue of a fairy.
It is a truly wonderful sight to look down at all the boats shuttling
to and fro. |